ITALY TRIP – JUDY & MARVINO ZEIDLER – FRIDAY – OCTOBER 10, 2008
International Airpor LAX – Lufthansa – Friday – arrived 3pm – checked in – business lounge on 5th floor 3:30pm. Boarded plane at 4:10pm & left at 4:30pm. 9 ½ hours to Frankfurt –
SATURDAY – OCTOBER 11, 2008 – LOS ANGELES – CATANIA
Arrived Frankfurt at 12:00 noon – got ride on cart to A14 – flight late to Munich – boarded at 1:15pm – no way baggage would arrive with us.
Amazing experience – our flight to Munich was 1 hour late & we were walked to our flight & our bags were to be right behind us – we thought we would never make it and they didn’t
Arrived Catania Airport – no bags – Vito (our drive & friend) picked us up and left airport after 6pm – but not before having a Macchiato so I knew I was really in Italy – Vito had a mini bus. Drove to Catania to Hotel Etnea a small old world Hotel. Walking distance to everything. When we arrived on Saturday we passed a large market place as far as the eye could see. We showered & rested – met group at 8:30pm and walked to Antica Marina Osteria (a fish) restaurant
Antica Marina Osteria
Via Pardo, 29 Catania
Zone Pescheria tel: 095-348-197 – http://www.anticamarina.it/
Menu: Antipasti plate passed – anchovies, fresh & fried – small red fish (Triglia) fried – pickled veggies – shrimp raw – pasta with fresh tuna eggs – twisted pasta with? Shrimp & Ricotta Cake Walked back to hotel – lots of night scene, because it was Saturday night – in piazza a band was playing and a video photo was on the building.
SUNDAY – OCTOBER 12 – CATANIA TO TAORMINA MARE
UP at 8am – showered – walked to coffee bar for coffee and croissant – walked to another bar for orange juice & great coffee – met outside of hotel at 10:30am. Vito drove to airport on the way to our destination to find our luggage and they said it would arrive at 4pm.
Drove to Taormina Mare & checked into Hotel Caprina – overlooking the mare … rooms not ready – had lunch in Hotel – the best part of lunch was the local fresh ricotta cheese & honey – really good – Spaghetti with anchovies and bread crumbs – Salad – Chard (Bettola) sautéed with olive oil. Sat on lounges by the beautiful beach – up to room at 4:30 to shower and rest. Hooray – the luggage arrived thanks to Vito.
Dinner La Capinera Ristorante
Chef/Patron Pietro D’Agostino
Via Nazionale – Spisone – Taormina Mare
Cell: 338-1588013 – 329-310-5391 tel/fax 9042-626-247
Menu: 1. Passatina di Ceci di (Soup) leonforte con bottarga di cernia affumicata colatura di alici e menta (Ceci soup with Fish Roe (Botarga) (anchovy juice) Curry sprinkled on plate (in marmalade jar)
2. Il Nostro Crudo di mare con sale di mothya, agrumi di Sicilia e Olio di biancolilla val di Mazara (Sea Fish Marinated Fish Carpaccio – G?? Tuna – Sea Bass – Sword Fish – Shrimp – Amber Jack)
2 wines – Marco De Grazzia Wine
3. Insalata di scampi di Portopalo con gamberoni di Mazara su passata di fiori di zucchini e salsa ai pistilli di zafferano di Enna (Scampi & Shrimp – Zucchini Sauce (Safron (hellow) like yolk – Squid ink painted on plate.)
4. Filetto di ricciola cotto a bassa temperature con cipolla di Giarratana in agrodolce(Amber Jack – red onion (ragousso) sweet & sour red wine vinegar, sugar, honey cooked – 50 degrees (150) slow)
5. Linguine graze pastificio Setaro padellate con totano, salsiccia di suino nero dei Nebrodi e pane Tostato (Linguini Pasta – big calamari cut up – – sausage – bread cream – pistachio oil)
6. Bianco did entice pescato alliamo cotto sottovuoto con menta su crema di melanzane perline, miele e zenero (Dentiche – red snapper (vacuum pack) – eggplant honey & ginger puree – Saffron – cherry tomato confit
7. Tortino Caldo alle mele e nocciole dell’Etna in salsa al Marsala Florio, gelato alla ricotta di pecora e miele (Apple/Hazelnut – Ricotta Ice Cream – Marsala wine sauce – orange marmalade) (check – October 23 cooking at slow food.
8. Piccola pasticceria fresca e secca con il caffe’
9. Pane fatto in casa, grissini e focaccine
Sweet Wine – Frachetti – Tuscany
DINNER WAS GREAT – SEE PHOTOS — last fish main course repeat almost Left at 12:15am.
MONDAY – OCTOBER 13 – TAORMINA MARE TO MODICA
Up At 8am – breakfast was very good – again fresh local ricotta cheese (view of ocean) – back to room to pack – boarded bus at 10:30am – arrived 1:30PM – Modica at
Palazzo Failla Hotel
Via Blandini, 5 Modica, Sicily
Tel: 0932-941059 – e-mail: email@example.com
Met by owner & staff – reception of sparkling wine & pineapple juice spritzer and appetizers (mini sandwich with cheese – mozzarella balls – tomato toothpick with cheese – sat in bar for lunch and ate strudel like pastries filled with pasta & cheese and pasta & tomato/parsley – sausage & thin sliced potato salad – Went to room – rested – amazing room with painted ceiling. At 4pm drove to next village (below hotel) Modica to chocolate Factory) see photos –
Antica Dolceria Bonajuto
Di Ruta Franco owner
Umberto 1 N. 159 Modica (rg)
Tel/fax (0932) 941225
Chocolate with sugar granules mixed in – bought cabaita – sesame, sugar, miela, Mandorla (almonds) Back to Hotel – tried to get pills for throat too exzpensive – rested – met at 8:30pm and drove to Scicli to
Ristorante Tomato (Pomodoro)
46 – 97018 Scicli (rg) tel: 0932-931-444
small menu everyone ordered their own – Japanese Sommelier from our Hotel restaurant and wife joined us.
1. Potato Ball Fried (see photo)
2. Fried Ricotta pepperoni sauce
3. Octopus & potato Tortino Caviar
4. Taglalini botarga & lemon
5. Taglialini with octopus/tomato sauce
6. Pori (rolled) fillet
7. Sword Fish
8. Dessert – fried Ricotta
5 fingers.com – shoes with toes
TUESDAY – OCTOBER 14 – MODICA
Up at 8am – breakfast in hotel. Left at 10am – arrived in Noto at 10:50 am .. walked to pastry & bar
Caffe Sicilia – Corrado Assenza
Vittorio Emanuele, 125
96017 Noto – Tel: 0931-824-013
had lemon granite & coffee granite & they are known for their assorted pastries – drove to see Mosaics. Drove to Frigintini for lunch – outside Modica
Maria Fidone – Cucina Casereccia
Via Gianforma 6
Frigintini (rg) tel: 0931-901124 cell: 335-8207153 www.mariafidone.it
(strudel type appetizers) ravioli delicious – Rabbit & sausage
back to hotel – met chef Accursio Craparo of La Gazza Ladra Ristorante of hotel.
Rested and met at 9pm – sat in bar of Hotel – beer – along with a dish of a specisl sauce to taste (fennel seed & wine cooked down)
Dinner in Hotel Palazzo Failla Restaurant – La Gazza Ladra Ristorante
Chef Accursio Craparo
Via Blandini, 11 Modica (rg)
tel: 339-889-6428 www.ristorantelagazzaladra.it
Chef Accursio Craparo is coming to Napa and L.A. in November
Non e un Panino
Merluzzo dorato al sesamo con tartare di triglia e maionese di mare
Polenta di grano duro “russello” con tartare di carne affumicata, cagliata di pecora e profumo di mandarino
Sformatino di Formaggio ragusano con fave modicane, finocchietto selvatico, rapa rossa candita
Spaghetti con spremuta di Sicilia
Crema di acciuga, scorza di arancia candita, peperoncino, broccoli e bottarga di tonno
Risotto allo Zafferano con ragu di carne, piselli e pomodoro
Cappelli integrali con salsiccia, zucca, ricotta salata e mosto d’uva di Nero d’Avola
Pesc Azzurro al Profumo di Carbonella con Cipolla arrosto e peperone
Malalino dei Nebrodi con sanapu, fagioli e uva passa di Pantelleria
Guancia di vitello brasata con nocciole dei Nebrodi e verze speziate
Pane, olio e cioccolato
Il gran cannolo
Cannolo con gelato al cioccolato, zabaione al marsala rubino e ricotta
L’uovo a la coque
Gelatina di latte di mandorla con passion fruit e biscotto di mandorla con cedro, zuccata e arancia
and photos……. I sat next to Cecclia Occhipinti (she is a bone doctor) and Giusto from COS Winery, where we are going to stay for 2 days.
WEDNESDAY – OCTOBER 15 – MODICA TO VITTORIA
Up at 8am – breakfast – packed – left at 10am for herb garden outside of Scicli – tasted Tomato Paste – homemade by mother & sun dried tomatoes.
Drove to Cathedral in Scicli to see painting of Christ wearing a skirt with lace bottom standing on an ostrich egg. Drove at 1:30 to walled hilltop village of Chiaramonte (clear mountain) for lunch .. fantastic
Via Martin Ungheresi, 12
Chiaramonte Gulfi (rg)
Walked into kitchen first then out to the street up a hill and upstairs where a long table was filled with priests Menu: cold jellied pork (thick clear jelly on top) and salami ravioli cheese with meat sauce – Pork chop – salad & cheese sauce — semi freddo with caramel & nuts & chocolate sauce
Drove to B&B COS winery – owners – Cecelia & Giusto Occhipinti owned to stay 2 nights.
B&B COS winery
owners – Cecelia & Giusto Occhipinti
Azienda Agricola – Viticoltori in Vittoria
97019 Vittoria (rg)
Tel: 0932-876145 fax: 0932-875623
Checked into winery ….. had room on ground level –
Angela – Giusto sister made dinner – very good – she is amazing …. Full of energy and enthusiasm
Menu: Spaghetti with Cauliflour
Il Sakalleo Ristorante di Pasquale Ferrara
Piazza Cavour, 12
97010 Scoglitti (rg)
THURSDAY – OCTOBER 16 – VITTORIA
Up at 9am – breakfast at 9:45am – 10;30 am Giusto gave us a tour of his winery – fantastic (see photos) Wine aging in clay pots – amphor dug in under earth rock – back to B&B for wine tasting & lunch …… Angela (Giusto’s sister) made lunch with 2 other women. Menu: Zucchini Pasta Sauce with Shell Pasta – Veal Involtini – rolled in bread crumbs with cheese and lardo – baked with bay leaves & green onions – pumpkin squash agro dolci (sauté in olive oil – cook in baking dish – mix garli, must of grapes – balsamic – olive oil – pour over peeled sliced and sautéed zucca & bake ——— salad —– cheese (caccia cavoli) then melon & ricotta with honey – finished lunch at 3pm – sat by pool & rested.
Giusto gave us a fantastic wine tasting
Served 2 different wines – Nero di Avola – Cerasculo 1980 & 1984 – Mag 86 – 95 – 97 – 2000 – 2005 – Sirie Wines 1995 – 1999 – 2000 – 2001 – 2003 – & 2005 – 13 wines. Combination of Frappata & Nero Di Avola
Rested and 6:30pm drove to Fausta (niece of Giusto) On way to restaurant stopped for an olive oil and wine tasting. (see photo)
Via del Mille, 55 – 97019 Vittoria (rg)
Tel/fax 39-0932-868222 – cell: 39-339-5990842 www.agricolaocchipinti.it
Went to Fish Restaurant – Il Sakalleo in Scoglitte — Amazing dinner:
Il Sakalleo Ristorante di Pasquale Ferrara
Piazza Cavour, 12
97010 Scoglitti (rg)
FRIDAY – OCTOBER 17 – VITTORIA TO LICATA
Up at 9:30 – fresh milk & cereal – great fresh sheep ricotta (pecora) Cereal – Giusto & Angela – brother & sister – checked out & took bottle of wine – stopped & met fausta & her father at pharmacy for olive oil. Drove to Gela to Museo Archeologico Regionale – then to Licata –
Ristorante La Madia
Corso F. Re Capriata – 22 Licata (ag)
Tel: 0922-771443 – firstname.lastname@example.org
took photos in kitchen Restaurant. Met Chef & Stage Chef knows Mauro Febriao and his friends at Miramonte Alto
Drove to lunch in Traditional Restaurant
Traditional Ristorante Logico
Di Angelo & Salvatore Cardella
Via Salvo D’Acquisto, 5
92027 Licata (AG)
Drove to Agriturismo Mandranova
Azienda Agricola Mandranova
Colture e Resort
s.s. 115 – KM 217
92020 Palma di Montechiaro (1g)
Mobile: 39-393-986-21-69 – fax: 39-0 393-986-21-69
outside of Licata – picked vegetables from Orta (Garden) cooked dinner
Menu — Roasted Peppers with fresh anchovies – Tiny Eggplant in Tomato Sauce
Pasta with Cauliflour & broccoli —- Pistachio and greens of wild fennel Pesto with Shells
Sword Fish with Cherry Tomatoes
Chocolate covered cereal, cookies & Pistachio and Almonds
SATURDAY – OCTOBER 18 – LICATA
Up at 8:30am – breakfast – Giuseppe gave us a tour of his olive oil preparation (see photos) Drove to Monastary – nuns inside chapel – got story by young man.
Drove to Licata – La Madia and had Mufalata sandwiches – help yourself – tuna, chicoria, brocolie, green – aqual dolci (pinenutes, onion, celery, honey, vinegar cooked.) Saw lots of demo in kitchen – no lelmon in artichoke only water and parsley – sauce of anchovies and milk or cream blended – mayonnaise with anchovy & parsley. Pasta with flour (Molino) egg yolks & eggs & saffron – great sandwich lunch. Left & stopped at hotel by beach for coffee.
Dinner at La Madia —–
Stage Chef Leonardo Scala – cell: 39-333-2908812
Sat next to Ceclia & Giusto & Fausta – very creative menu
Menu: Movia-Rivola wine
1. Fava Bean Puree – Ricotta & Triglia
2. Red Shrimp Crudo – Botarga Maynnaise – Fish eggs (roe) – olive oil
3. Sliced cod on top of smashed potatoes (smoked pinecone sauce
4. Raviolo – made of Calamaro – Cacuza – Terooni leaves plant of squash puree
5. Tena Rumi a “Fausta” Garlic, oil , fresh oil – tomato – no skin – chopped tenarumi & salt pepper add a little water 20 minutes
6. Tortella puree – little skate – traponi Pesto – basil, almonds, sauce pomodoro – fried potatoes
6a. Poured red tomato water into plate after serving.
7. small eggplant cassollo
WINE – PORTO LEZZI – RASPBERRIES (LIKE PINOT NERO)
1000 METER HIGHT CONFUSE FOR PINTO NERO
8. Amber Jack – oil flavored with ash – bbq – cuttle fish – dried squid ink – smashed potato – artichoke chips
9. Sorbetto of Red Mulberry
10. Ice cream cone with Canolo with light ricotta filling – rum cup cake (1/2 in center – gelato with ??
SUNDAY – OCTOBER 19 – LICATA TO SELINUNTE
(Up at 8:30 – breakfast – drove for 1 or 2 hours to Scincca – to have Granite at famous café Roma – our second time.
Café Roma di Aurelio Licata
Via Dogane, 8
92019 Scincca (Ag)
Then drove to Selinunte – to lunch at La Pineta (our second visit – not as good as the first time) PierLuiggi & Antoinelle came with their two little girls .. Gaia years old & Delia 3 years old. Jamie took Gaia down to the water and she went in clothes and all and swam like a fish.
Via Punta Cantone
Marinella di Selinunte 91022 (tp)
Tel: 0924-46820 – fax: 0924-46820
Menu: Octopus, sardines, mussels, clams, (brick) – spaghetti with clams – fruit filled with ice cream. Walked to water – left and checked into Hotel Eracle in Selinunte, just next to the house of PierLuiggi & Antoinelle and their family.
Via Caboto – Marinella di Selinunte (tp)
Tel: 0039-924-81422 – fax 0039-0924-941058
PierLuiggi & Antoinella Crescimanno – cell: 335-570-7842
Tenuta Rocchetta – Azienda Agricola – Olive Oil Farm
Via Ugo Bassi, 12
Tel/fax: 39-0924-904364 – 39-091-6259500
Pierluiggi gave us a tour of making olive oil. Many people were invited in our honor including the mayor
BBQ (pork & sausage)
Big bowls of fruit for dessert
Then walked to the dining room of their home and had many sweets (not very good)
Marilena Crescimanno Cell: (328) 2428494 (Pier Luiggi’s sister)
Tenuta Rocchetta – Azienda Agricola
Via M. Ugo, 56
90141 Palermo www.tenutarocchetta.it
MONDAY – OCTOBER 20 – SELINUNTE TO NEAR PALERMO
Up at 8:15 am – breakfast – PierLuiggi & family came to say goodby. Went to pharmacy for prescription – and drove to lunch Ristorante Pizzeria – only serve Pizza at night …. TALKED TO MARC ABOUT CHANGING TICKETS
La Duchessa di Borruso Francesca
Via Duchessa, 34 – Castellamma del Golfo
Antipasti …………. Ricotta/chocolate chip Filled Turnovers (see photo)
Drove for 3 hours to Hotel Yspigro Palace in Mountain past Palermo especially to go to a restaurant for dinner in same village.
Yspigro Palace Hotel
Via Cefalu, 111 Via Mazzini, 2
tel: 39-0921-676007 fax; 39-0921-676163
Via delle confraternite 5
0921-671428 – 0921-671-228
Dinner was just OK ——- but restaurant had atmosphere ….. specialty .. mushrooms (porcini) I ordered Mushroom Soup …. The others had Antipasti (Marvino said not very good.)
Pasta Course – Tagliatelli with ricotta and Porcini or Spaghetti with Mushrooms
Vito asked for just tagliatelle with mushrooms and sauce (IT WAS THE BEST)
For main course we ordered mushrooms on the grill … very good – just wish I had been hungry. Everyone else ordered heavy meat dishes.
Faith gave the owners Olive Oil. Walked back to Hotel.
TUESDAY – OCTOBER 21 – PALERMO TO GENOVA
Up at 8:30 – breakfast downstairs – left at 10am – drove on way to Palermo to see Mosaic in Church (see book) in Monreale
Drove to Winery outside of Corlione – on rocky road – had to change cars to drive to winery – great wine tasting. Griccione Winery – Francesco & Manfreddi?
Drove to Palermo and said good by to Jamie & Rebecca (see photo getting into taxi) then we walked to a bar inside of the wall – amazing – sat and had wine and they brought fantastic appetizers … left and walked thru street that Faith is writing an article about the Bakery etc. Bought bread etc. & picnic supplies for ship …. (see photos)
Antoinella and Marilena Crescimanno came to have dinner with us …. Antoinella gave me a beautiful coral pin (broach)
Then Dinner at Castello and meeting our hostess – she gives cooking classes and has rooms to stay. Rooms overlook ships coming and going.
Nicoletta Polo PALAZZO
Butera28 – Appartamenti
Via Butera, 28
Tel: (39) 333-3165432 – Fax: (39) 091-616-8052
Waiters with white gloves served dinner
Menu: Appetizers passed: Chick Pea Blini size — Crusting of olive paste mixed with pistachio nuts
1. Curly Pasta with cauliflour
2. Pasta in cake form with Tomato Sauce
3. Orange Salad – Mixed Salad and Roasted Peppers 4. Veal Cutlet – Fresh Baked Tuna with Tomatoe Sauce
4. Dessert – 2 jello type desserts – Almond & Lemon Jello – sugared grapes
We rushed out to board ship ….
WEDNESDAY – OCTOBER 22 – PALERMO TO GENOVA TO TORINO
Up at 9am – on ship on way to Genova – 10am breakfast closed – fresh orange juice, coffee & muffin that we didn’t eat. Funny story about price. 6 euros but you have to have the muffin because they were out of croissants ..
Walked around ship …. Boring …. Met at 1pm for lunch in cafeteria with our picnic food, which we didn’t need because I selected roasted peppers, zucchini and eggplant and Marvino had tomatoes and a ball of Ricotta – bread and water.
Dessert was ricotta cake that they bought at the bakery with crust and almonds on top. Coffee in bar and rested. Left ship at 6pm …….. met Vito with bus and drove to Torino.
Checked into Hotel Meridian and walked to the Eatly …… Faith rushed around to find a place (Guido’s) for us all to eat…. But Guido’s was all reserved so we sat in an open restaurant and again had antipasti cold cuts and cheese …
THURSDAY – OCTOBER 23 – TORINO
Up at 7:30am – breakfast at 8:30am – walked to Salone and got our press badges — Saw lots of interesting foods.
Lunch – sat with 2 woman and one man business partners ….. Maria Grazia Bergia email@example.com — Nicola Bonifacio and Sara Valentino lives in Torino …. They invited us to a cheese tasting at 4pm.
Lunch was very good ….. Seafood plate – wide noodles with shrimp — fish with tomato picante sauce on mashed potatoes – dessert – apple strudel and small strudel with nuts. —- walked the show – see photos …. Saw Thomas .. he went with us for the cheese tasting at 4pm
Sara Valentino (met at Slow Food Lunch)
Via G. Gropello, 28 – 10138 Torino – Tel: 349-296-0001
Dinner to meet at 7, but left at 8 and arrived after 9pm ….. La Contea …. Not very good …. Faith ordered lots of wine in magnums ….
1. appetizer plate stupid ….. one piece of roasted pepper and small slice of tongue.
2. I ordered a fried egg with white truffles the others had raw meat (marvin said it was dry)
3. Rolled meat wrapped in cabbage?
4. Spagetti with cheese sauce and 5. small ravioli with black truffles —
6. Beef Ox Tail 7. Stupid Dessert – large thick crust like canola with ice cream & a stupid fruit (pomegranate seeds) scattered on plate that did not work.
FRIDAY – OCTOBER 24 – TORINO
Up at 8:30am – breakfast and finally said good by to L&M –
Walked to Salone – sat in on Lavazza press conference celebrating 10 year anniverssary of designing coffee with Ferran Adria from the famous Il Bulli in Spain and their new book. Went upstairs for coffee and appetizers … Ferran Adria signed my book.
Met 2 couples from Italy – cheese shop and Piere Restaurant – Also Pepe Zullo gave us cd etc.
Had delicious Buffalo Yogurt tasting – walked back to Hotel room not made – sat in lobby and wrote in book. Rested in room until 5pm …. Met Sylvia in lobby for a drink …..
Met Sylvia Imparato in the lobby of our hotel for a drink. She visited us in Los Angeles recently and we had a great time. She gave us one of the last bottles of her 1997 wine.
Sylvia Imparato her sister is Anna Imparato
Azienda Agricole Montevetrano Wines.
Work: (089) 882285
Fax: (089) 882010
Home Page: http://www.montevetrano.it/%20–%firstname.lastname@example.org
Via Montevetrano 3 – 84099 S. Cipriano Picontino
Contact Name: Silvia/Anna Imparato
Other E-mail: Silvia.email@example.com
Then at 8pm went to dinner at
Ristorante La Valle Da Gabriele – Cucina Stagionale
Via Umberto 1, 25
Valle Sauglio Trofarello (To) Strada per Pevetto
1. Sparkling wine and small plate of round sausage on top of yellow squash puree – ground almaretti on side (great idea) Timorasso – single vineyard
2. Homemade salted cod onion/parsley sauce
3. Stuffed Squid with cheese & mashed potatoes
4. Carne Cruda – Piemonte cured meat – cheese sandwich with meat sweet lettuce on top candied ginger
5. Martini glass – egg yolk on bottom … cookie on top .. Porcini mushroom cream .. shaved ricotta
6. Tagliatelle with chicken, cocks comb, liver etc. (cresto di gallo)
7. Tripe in tomato sauce
8. Cheese – honey – Pear – Barolo
SATURDAY – OCTOBER 25 – 4:30 AM LEFT FOR AIRPORT – ARRIVED HOME SATURDAY AT 1:30PM.