What makes the holiday of Purim so special for our family is more than the heroic story of Queen Esther. These days, our celebration wouldn’t be complete without a holiday meal that starts with all the grandchildren and great-grandchildren dressed up in costume to re-create the Purim story and making mayhem, using groggers —noise-makers — from our collection that are part of the table decor.
The menu itself is much less chaotic. According to legend, Queen Esther ate mostly fruits, vegetables, grains and rice, to avoid eating nonkosher foods at the palace. This Purim, in keeping with that tradition, let’s focus on dishes made with rice.
I remember the first time we had Persian rice at the home of our friends Homeira and Arnold Goldstein. It was delicious, and I asked her for the recipe. Homeira, a great gourmet cook, had grown up with this dish and explained that her family never followed a recipe. It was a very long and difficult task, but I worked with her and we developed a recipe that can be made in a typical family’s home kitchen. A special treat is the crunchy layer of well-cooked rice that forms on the bottom of the pan, and it has become one of our favorite Purim dishes.
There is always a jar of grape leaves in my pantry, and I have an ageless recipe for dolmas(stuffed grape leaves) filled with an onion-rice and dried apricot mixture. You can plan to make the grape leaves days ahead, and the rice filling should be prepared and put in the refrigerator at least a day in advance. Then the grape leaves can be stuffed, rolled, steamed and stored until ready to serve. If possible, buy the grape leaves preserved in lemon juice, not brine, because the latter sometimes will taste salty.
I am also including my favorite risotto recipe using Italian Arborio rice, onions and vegetable stock. It is a great dish to serve unexpected company because the ingredients are usually in my pantry, so last-minute shopping is unnecessary.
HOMEIRA-STYLE SAFFRON BASMATI RICE CRISP POTATOES
- 1 1/2 cups basmati rice
- Water
- 2 tablespoons salt
- 1 teaspoon vinegar
- 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon olive oil
- 1 teaspoon saffron threads
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- 1 small russet potato, peeled and thinly sliced
Preheat oven to 400 F.
In a large bowl, soak rice in 4 cups water for 4 to 6 hours. Drain and wash rice very gently under running water until the water runs clear.
In a medium-size pot, bring 8 cups water to a boil. Add rice, salt, vinegar, and 1 tablespoon olive oil; boil for 7 minutes. Strain rice in a colander under cold running water. Shake well to get rid of excess water; set rice aside.
Using a mortar and pestle, grind saffron threads and sugar into a powder, mix with 1 tablespoon water; set aside.
Heat remaining 1/2 cup olive oil in a 9-inch cast-iron or other ovenproof skillet over medium heat. Drizzle half of saffron mixture over oil. Arrange potato slices in a sunburst pattern or use your creativity for a different pattern. Cook potatoes for 2 minutes, until edges of potato slices are golden. Add rice gradually, spreading it loosely over potato slices. Cover and cook over low heat 15 minutes.
Transfer to oven; bake 35 to 40 minutes. Remove from oven; let rest 5 minutes. Remove lid, place a platter over the skillet and turn it upside down away from your body onto the platter. Drizzle remaining saffron mixture over rice.
Makes 8 to 10 servings.
DOLMAS (STUFFED GRAPE LEAVES)
From “The Gourmet Jewish Cook” (1988) by Judy Zeidler
- 1 cup olive oil
- 4 large onions, finely chopped
- 1 cup water
- 1 cup long-grain white rice
- 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
- 1/4 cup chopped fresh mint leaves
- 1 teaspoon ground allspice
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 2 (6-ounce) packages dried apricot halves
- 1 (16-ounce) jar grape leaves, rinsed
- Juice of 3 lemons
In a large, heavy skillet, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add onions and saute, stirring frequently, until soft, but not browned, about 10 minutes. Add 1/2 cup water, rice, parsley, mint, allspice, salt and pepper. Stir well, cover, and continue cooking over low heat for about l5 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes to prevent sticking. The rice will be undercooked. Remove from heat; cool to room temperature.
Dice 3 ounces of dried apricot halves; add to cooled rice.
Place 5 or 6 grape leaves on the bottom of a large pot. Place remaining apricot halves on top of grape leaves to cover. Set aside.
Snip off and discard stems of remaining leaves. Place leaves on a work surface, vein sides up. Place a heaping tablespoon of rice mixture in center of each grape leaf. Roll stem end over filling, fold in sides, and roll up leaf to enclose rice mixture completely.
Place stuffed leaves seam sides down in neatly packed layers on top of apricots in prepared pot. Sprinkle with remaining 1/2 cup water and lemon juice. Place a heavy oven-proof dish inside the pot on top of grape leaves.
Cover and simmer 20 to 30 minutes, until grape leaves are tender. Serve hot, or, if you prefer, transfer them to a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and chill in the refrigerator. Serve on a large platter surrounded by cooked apricots from bottom of pot.
Makes about 60.
TRADITIONAL RISOTTO
- 6 tablespoons unsalted margarine
- 1 onion, finely chopped
- 2 1/2 cups Arborio rice
- 6 to 8 cups hot vegetable stock
- 1/4 cup minced fresh parsley
- 1/2 to 1 cup cream
- 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
In a large, heavy skillet, melt 4 tablespoons margarine until foamy. Add onion; saute over medium heat until soft.
Add rice; mix well with a wooden spoon. Add 1 or 2 ladles of stock or enough to cover rice. Cook, stirring constantly, as stock is absorbed. Continue adding stock a little at a time, cooking and stirring, until rice is just tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Add parsley and cream to rice mixture; mix well, and cook 3 to 4 minutes longer.
Risotto should be served al dente — creamy and chewy — never mushy, so do not overcook. When rice is tender but firm to the bite, blend in 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese and remaining 2 tablespoons margarine. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve immediately in heated shallow bowls. Garnish with some of remaining 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese. Serve remaining Parmesan in a bowl, to be passed separately.
Makes 6 to 8 servings.
